I imagine over time a climber develops an intimate relationship with her body. Much in the same way a yogi or gymnast would.  There are a multitude of different positions she needs to assume to ascend.  The creative use of hands, from stacking fingers to generate pulling power to jamming your first into a crack and camming your wrist for stability.  We learn that fingertips and toetips are enough to finish.  In that way the holds that seem so small to the untrained eye seem much more enormous to a climber.  

I am not a high level climber by any means.  But I spend alot of time in the gym and outdoors watching how other climbers move.  Movement in climbing takes me back to some of my own spiritual practices.  In Buddhism, there is a teaching calling the Eightfold Path.  It includes some guidance on how we should conduct ourselves in life.  From Right Speech to Right Intention, it goes on.  When it comes to climbing you can add Right Movement. 

Right Movement is providing precisely the movement that is needed in that moment to achieve success.  No more, no less.  Some of climbers we see on television are masters of providing just enough.  Elite climbers have an acute body knowledge of momentum and how much to apply.  Momentum is key when we think of Right Movement because it’s the dynamic properties of climbing that separate beginners from the next level. 

In the gym I often see women and men of slight build find greater success in finding the right movement.  In general, men possess strength and the ability to generate more power than women.  This results in the old adage:  if you got it, use it.  This can result in expending more energy than is necessary to complete your movements.  Sure you may complete the route, but you didn’t do it with Right Movement.  I guess it’s just another way to talk about efficiency.

Within Right Movement lives The Zone.  You know the one.  Where everything flows.  Where things come easy.  Every movement on your climb is there for you.  Your body positioning is impeccable.  Almost as if, in those rare moments, you are completely wired to succeed. 

It’s not to say Right Movement will lead you down that path with consistency.  But it’s something to think about.  Not too much, not too little.  The Middle Way of climbing.  There’s a certain beauty that comes with quality, efficient movement.  An awareness of your terrain.  Understanding that you know what this route needs and you give it.  I see climbers overpower routes all the time and watching them climb it looks exactly like that.  A fight.  A struggle.  Right Movement is a dance not a fight.  It flows like water.  It being you.